Tsavo West National Park

The 9055 sq km Tsavo West National Park is much more varied and diverse in landscape than the Tsavo East National Park. Here, you will encounter evidence of recent volcanism in the form of lava flows and craters, impressive mountains covered partly with dense, forested vegetation suitable for climbing, magnificent viewpoints with vistas of Kilimanjaro (Tanzania), and a special rhino sanctuary where you can observe rare rhinoceroses.

The area has two permanent water sources: Mzima Springs and the Tsavo River. However, every advantage has its drawback: this part of the park has a relatively high number of tourists, and due to the dense bushland and the complex terrain, animals are harder to spot.

The entire southern part of Tsavo West, on the other hand, consists of wide, rolling hills and plains of dry bush and grass savannas. At its southwestern border, there are also two important water sources: Lake Jipe and the Ziwani River.

The northwestern part of the park boasts the most attractions and therefore the most accommodations. You could easily spend three days exploring the various sights here. For wildlife observation, the northern bank of the Tsavo River, which you can follow for several kilometers from the Tsavo Gate, is especially suitable during the dry season. In this area, you will also find the Ngulia Rhino Sanctuary, a 74 sq km protected area for over 50 black rhinos, surrounded by an electric fence. This is the only way to monitor the valuable animals around the clock in the vast terrain of Tsavo West National Park. The sanctuary can be visited from 4:00 PM to 6:00 PM without additional entry fees, which you should not miss as the rare animals, who prefer to graze and rest in the dense bush, are otherwise hard to spot (no guarantee of seeing rhinos).

From the terrace of the Ngulia Safari Lodge, situated on the edge of the 1260 m high Ndawe Escarpment, you can look down into the plain 200 m below and far off to the Yatta Plateau. The visit is worth it just for this fantastic view.

West of the hotel, the 1824 m high Mt. Ngulia rises, with the Rhino Valley Camp (formerly Ngulia Bandas) standing on its almost vertical northern side.

A little south of the Ngulia Safari Lodge is another impressive mountain, Kichwa Tembo: The “Elephant Head” is named for its 300 m high rock face facing the Tsavo River.

As you continue, you pass through a true lunar landscape of black lava, originating from relatively recent eruptions of the Chaimu Crater and thus still barely vegetated. The colors of the few plants – mostly sparse grass tufts – appear almost vivid against the pitch-black material.

An extraordinary viewpoint is the Roaring Rocks, with a few dozen steps leading up the roughly 100 m high summit. The magnificent view over the Rhino Valley and towards Ngulia Mountain rewards the effort. These hills are named so because when the wind sweeps along the rocks, it sometimes creates a rushing sound – “Roaring Rocks.”

Another even more impressive volcano is the Shetani, located on the southern slopes of the Chyulu Range but still within Tsavo West. Various eerie myths surround this place, indicated by its name Shetani, Swahili for “devil.” It’s quite possible that there’s a grain of truth behind the tales of people being swallowed by lava, as the last eruption occurred only about 200 years ago. You can wander a bit on the lava field and see lava splashes, graphite, and sulfur deposits. The lava looks so fresh that you instinctively hesitate to step on the black stone, fearing it might burn you. But the danger lurks elsewhere: in the lava flow, there is a – supposedly 13 km long – tunnel system, discovered only in 1975.

After all this dryness, heat, and hostility to life, the Mzima Springs seem like a dream: In the midst of the dry, hot landscape covered with brittle lava and dusty bush, a dense forest of Doum and Raphia palms emerges. Screeching diademed monkeys and green monkeys frolic in the branches. In the middle of the vegetation lies a crystal-clear, cool freshwater lake, corresponding to the cliché of an oasis. By the way, the Raphia palm is the palm species with the longest fronds, which can measure up to 9 m. The green island is fed by a spring that discharges around 300,000 liters of drinking water per minute, filling several large basins. Part of the precious water is pumped via pipeline to Mombasa for drinking water supply. The water is so clear that you can see dozens of meters beneath the surface of the small lake. Everyone can verify this in an underwater chamber with glass panes. You will mainly see the playful dance of barbs and other fish, which are as curious as you are, sticking to the glass. The hippos and crocodiles, on the other hand, usually retreat to the most remote corners for some reason and are not easy to spot. This is a pity because it is quite a spectacle to see one of these up to 800 kg colossi walking along the bottom of the spring basin.

From Poacher’s Lookout, there are unobstructed panoramic views of the bushland, the Chyulu Mountains, and, in clear weather, Kilimanjaro (Tanzania).

In the southwest of the park, right on the border with Tanzania, lies Lake Jipe, which is particularly interesting for its rich birdlife and the herds of hippos and crocodiles.

Finch Hattons Camp
Kilaguni Serena Lodge
Ngulia Lodge
Severin Safari Camp
Voyager Safari Camp
Rhino Valley Camp (former Ngulia Bandas)

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